Wednesday, January 31, 2007

The Hobart Chronicles XVIII: Ship In The Harbour

“If I was crying…
It was for freedom
from myself…
I made a lot of mistakes
In my mind.”
- Sufjan Stevens, Chicago, 2005

“Baby I’m sure that you’re getting bored in this
town”
- Weddings Parties Anything, Ship In The Harbour, 1992
Well, the C(o)untry Music Festival in Tamworse is over for 2007, which means I have been in Tasnarnia for a year. Already!

As you’ll know if you’ve ever spent time in a country town (Slobart has some country characteristics), it is not possible to become a Local without being born there (and preferably having some background as well). In NSW I would meet people who had lived in a town for 35 years who described themselves as ‘nearly Local’. So becoming Local here may not be possible - but how have I become localised?

* I now refer to other parts of Australia as ‘the Mainland’;
* I refer to elected members of local council as 'Aldermen';

* I go to the Salamanca Markets on Saturday to buy bread and vegetables, and then get pissed off by all the ‘tourists’ in the way;

* Any time I want a takeaway dinner, I make sure to get it before 9pm when all the takeaway joints close;

* Just like the taxis, busses, and local drivers, I do not quibble about taking up 2 lanes when driving in the city during peak hour, and am not surprised by anyone doing 80km on the 110km highways;

* I go to see the ships at Constitution & neighbouring docks;

* I watch clouds;

* I can again buy and eat fresh fish without worrying about salmonella.

But there's always more to learn about Tasnarnia and Tasnarnians.

Tasnarnia is a state of cricket tragics. The Ashes Urn toured here the other week, after a last minute adjustment to the national Museums schedule to actually include the state on the map. The trip proved well worth the trouble. Nearly 20,000 people filed past the little urn in four days, queuing for more than an hour and in some cases joining the line on the street outside the Museum. Now that’s a level of dedication the PM could be proud of.

I am not sure if I get what the whole cricket worship thing is about. Being with the Corporation I did go to the exhibition opening, a fancy event at which not only did I get to see the urn without waiting or shoving crowds out of the way, I was also plied with smoked salmon and champagne.

I wanted very much to see for myself this little object that is the focus of so much international sporting rivalry and column inches. Knowing the urn’s vital stats, I was prepared to be underwhelmed by its physical appearance... and yes, it was underwhelming. But without being particularly excited by the object, I was nevertheless glad I went. Does that make sense?

And January is cruise ship season, with a variety of behemoths sailing into harbour for fleeting visits of Slobart.

Yesterday the Sapphire Princess, which appears related to the Starship Enterprise, paused for a few hours so its passengers could jump off and take a few pictures. The SP can carry 2,670 passengers, which apparently makes it the K-Mart of pleasure cruisers. It has 17 decks, weighs 116,000 tonnes and is 290 metres long.
Here is a picture for you; have a look at the police patrol boat next to the ship to give you an idea of scale.

It’s an impressive bit of temporary scenery, as a backdrop to eating a paper bag of fish & chips for dinner.

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